Edible sand, floating coffee clouds, treasure chests and bubbling golden baths.
If Wonka did cocktails, they’d look like this. But this world of pure imagination isn’t in some trendy corner of Soho – it’s in a 16th-century pub turned bar/restaurant in the pretty village of Aylesford.
The Hengist, sadly closed in 2023, reopened last summer with new owner Kieron Khory-Davinson promising a theatrical London-style drinking experience in Kent.
He poured £80,000 into a makeover which has achieved a unique look I can only describe as medieval safari-chic, which downstairs sees the ‘hunting trophy’ heads of a flamingo and an emu peer out from under the beamed ceilings, beside a period fireplace.
Upstairs, I hear, is the zebra room and there’s also talk of a rainforest. But downstairs at least, the building’s Grade II-listing appears to have kept the decor a little more restrained – unlike the menu which is a smörgåsbord of wacky refreshments.
Perhaps they’re low on glassware, but the cocktails are served in everything from a smoking goblet to a golden bubble bath, a phone box, bird cage and even a Dodo.
A waiter makes two trips past our table as our drinks are prepared – each time laden with candy floss.
Despite most of the cocktails on the flowery menu having whimsical names like Secret Garden, Love Birds or Dream Catcher, I couldn’t help myself being lured by some out-of-place political satire and had ordered the Donald Trump. The floss, naturally, was for his hair.
This very orange £22 sharing cocktail is served in a golden teapot spewing dry ice and is a mix of whiskey, lemon, clementine, ginger cordial, fresh ginger and lemon tea. You even get a mini ceramic Trump and some chocolate coins. If only I could use them to pay for it.
But for all the props and price tag that told me I was going to feel cheated by the taste, it was actually delicious.
Just like the real thing, there’s nothing subtle about it, and you can’t ignore the ginger. And when you think Donald’s all done, you realise no, there’s more.
In fact the teapot gave close to four servings in total – one for each indictment, perhaps?
Not realising just how generous the sharer would be, we’d also ordered an On the Beach – a spiced rum cocktail with coconut, strawberry, pineapple and lime.
You really have to clear the table for these drinks – this one came in a wooden box filled with edible sand, jelly caviar and more dry ice.
It was fruity and refreshing, but the wow factor definitely came from the theatre as opposed to the cocktail itself, which lacked a bit of oomph.
In total the drinks took nearly 15 minutes to come out – you can’t rush the preparation of Trump’s barnet after all – but given we were the only customers in to begin with I can imagine the waits getting pretty long at peak times.
And while the waitress was cheerful and friendly, she was decidedly absent after taking our initial order, with service focusing much more on food bookings.
Coming up to half an hour after we finished our drinks, we managed to flag down the bill and, with a pocket full of chocolate coins, headed through the garden, bedecked with festoon lights and over the bridge back to the car park.
The whole night had been surreal. I can’t fault the new owner’s ambition and it’s certainly the most out-there cocktail bar I’ve been to in Kent.
Before it shut in 2023 I’d had many a happy night at The Hengist, albeit drawn by the food rather than the bar, so it’s great to see it open again and with another string to its bow.
Will I be making this my regular tipple and demanding Trumps wherever I go?
Well, no. But it was an evening to remember and, when it comes to a good night out this bar is doing its bit for the MAGA movement – Making Aylesford Great Again.
The Hengist Restaurant and Cocktail Bar, 7-9 High Street, Aylesford, ME20 7AX
Décor: I can’t comment on upstairs, but downstairs felt just modern and fun enough to match the menu, without trying to erase the charm of this gorgeous listed building ***
Drinks: It’s style over substance, for sure. The drinks were tasty but it was the presentation that made them so memorable and that’s what’s earning the fourth star ****
Price: At between £10-14, it’s certainly at the higher end of the scale for a cocktail in Kent, but for the extra few quid you do get an experience – and quite often snacks if you count your edible sand/candy floss. The sharers do provide better value for money per glass but it’s still not cheap by anyone’s standards ***
Staff: Friendly enough but elusive. It felt as though diners were getting priority and nobody came to ask if we needed anything when we were sat with empty glasses/teapots **
Best for: Pre-dinner aperitif
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