Secret Drinker reviews Shepherd Neame pub the Walnut Tree at Aldington, Ashford

You won’t find many softer pooches than Chester, pub dog at the Walnut Tree in Aldington, but after a good wag and coming over to say hello he happily returned to his bed.

The barmaid didn’t have the luxury of a bed in the bar, but her welcome was equally warm and upbeat and, in a trice, she answered three questions – lunch was being served, the SD Hound could come to sit in the bar and she’d bring the drinks over. It was a Bear Island for me and, for Mrs SD, a wine, in the only size glass she knows, and from the only country she recognises.

The Walnut Tree on Forge Hill in Aldington can trace its history right back to the 14th century, but it was during the Napoleonic Wars when it really gained notoriety as a headquarters for a gang of smugglers
The Walnut Tree on Forge Hill in Aldington can trace its history right back to the 14th century, but it was during the Napoleonic Wars when it really gained notoriety as a headquarters for a gang of smugglers
Pub dog, Chester the cocker spaniel, is as welcoming as everyone else in the pub
Pub dog, Chester the cocker spaniel, is as welcoming as everyone else in the pub

I have to say, of the usual Shep suspects, I rate the 4.8% Bear Island, a rich gold-coloured American-style IPA at the upper end of the scale. I can also report Mrs SD was delighted by the quality of her large NZ Sauvignon Blanc.

Drinks sorted, there was plenty to choose from on the main menu, but we were only peckish so placed a double order from the sandwich menu, a sausage and onion for her and a BLT for me, which came with a salad and crisps (which we both switched out for chips).

Waiting for the sarnies to be delivered (they were clearly being freshly made) afforded me a good 10 minutes to take a closer look at what is obviously a historic building with a number of stories to tell.

I'm sure the sign does prove true for some folk but I was only in for one pint with my sandwich so the warning definitely didn't apply to me
I’m sure the sign does prove true for some folk but I was only in for one pint with my sandwich so the warning definitely didn’t apply to me
Many years ago those staying overnight at this inn would have stabled their horses here and then slept in the loft above to take advantage of the heat as it rose up from the animals
Many years ago those staying overnight at this inn would have stabled their horses here and then slept in the loft above to take advantage of the heat as it rose up from the animals

There are fantastic old timbers everywhere you look and I must say I do prefer it when truly historic pubs, rather than seeking to tart up and lighten old wood, leave the fabric of the building to gain its natural patina.

The original thatched property dates way back, almost 650 years, to the reign of Richard II, but it didn’t become a brewhouse until three centuries later. And, it wasn’t until the start of the 19th century that the pub gained real notoriety as the headquarters of a ruthless gang of smugglers who roamed Kent’s marshes.

However, it was a much more recent artefact which attracted my eye and I absolutely loved the photograph of the local hunt, which clearly favoured the Walnut Tree as a stopping off point for a deserved libation.

I understand why some old hostelries feel the need to modernise, but it's great to find a pub that has chosen to leave much of the old woodwork in place
I understand why some old hostelries feel the need to modernise, but it’s great to find a pub that has chosen to leave much of the old woodwork in place
The pub boasts a great inglenook fireplace with a whole host of accompanying ornaments
The pub boasts a great inglenook fireplace with a whole host of accompanying ornaments
A great photograph fondly remembering times past, when the local hunt chose the Walnut Tree as a stopping off point
A great photograph fondly remembering times past, when the local hunt chose the Walnut Tree as a stopping off point

But further investigation would have to wait and the sandwiches had arrived – I rated my BLT, on wonderfully fresh-cut white bread, the best but sausage-loving Mrs SD unsurprisingly disagreed. Either way, both were excellent and the accompanying chips and salad were equally fresh and well presented.

The SD Hound showed interest when the food arrived but knows the rules and, with no chance, quickly settled down. It’s a good job as I’d noted the pub’s ‘naughty corner’ has been signposted on the right-hand side of the fireplace and I didn’t really want to insist either her, or Mrs SD for that matter, were banished there.

Whilst we were enjoying our lunch we were joined in the bar by three guys in full camouflage fatigues, who weren’t in to eat but seemed to enjoy their visit nevertheless – I assume they are posted somewhere nearby.

Sausage-loving Mrs SD reckoned her sandwich selection was superior to mine and also praised the freshness of the bread
Sausage-loving Mrs SD reckoned her sandwich selection was superior to mine and also praised the freshness of the bread
The chips were crispy and fluffy inside, the salad fresh and crunchy and the BLT sandwich was delicious - I obviously made the best choice!
The chips were crispy and fluffy inside, the salad fresh and crunchy and the BLT sandwich was delicious – I obviously made the best choice!

There was music playing at a sensible level in the background but there’s no place for a jukebox, a pool table or a fruit machine, although there is a dartboard on one side of the bar.

After lunch, we were joined by landlady Hannah who was very happy to chat and go through her plans for the place. She only took up the reins just over a year ago but has lived in the village all her life and says she indebted to the locals who have been incredibly supportive of any changes she’s needed to make.

She insists the Walnut Tree is still a work in progress and there are a few things which still need doing in the garden, although it looked absolutely fine to me.

This dining area is a more recent extension to the pub but it wasn't in use during our visit, though I'm assured it comes into its own on a Sunday lunchtime
This dining area is a more recent extension to the pub but it wasn’t in use during our visit, though I’m assured it comes into its own on a Sunday lunchtime
We were blessed with a large expanse of bright blue sky but it was still chilly so no-one was braving the garden at lunchtime
We were blessed with a large expanse of bright blue sky but it was still chilly so no-one was braving the garden at lunchtime

And, she was keen to stress it’s very much a family affair as, among a number of other tasks, it is her dad who makes sure both the double-sided wood burners are well prepared and stocked with a good supply of wood.

Then, as if to prove her point, we were joined by Hannah’s brother, who was working a shift in the kitchen but needed to ask her a question.

The previous owner had the Walnut Tree for more than 20 years and Hannah knows the trick to creating a great village pub is being able to balance retaining the tradition and good name whilst, at the same time, ensuring it changes and evolves to attract new customers.

For me, she’s achieving this sometimes tricky challenge really well.

The garden looks impressive and I'm sure it gets packed in the summer. Landlady Hannah assures me the play area at the far end is also very popular
The garden looks impressive and I’m sure it gets packed in the summer. Landlady Hannah assures me the play area at the far end is also very popular
More recent additions to this historic hostelry, this is just one of two, double-sided wood burners used to heat both the bar and dining room
More recent additions to this historic hostelry, this is just one of two, double-sided wood burners used to heat both the bar and dining room
As you may be aware, I'm not a great fan of Shepherd Neame’s Master Brew, so decided it was worth the extra investment to have a Bear Island instead. And, the large NZ Sav Blanc was a considerably bigger investment!
As you may be aware, I’m not a great fan of Shepherd Neame’s Master Brew, so decided it was worth the extra investment to have a Bear Island instead. And, the large NZ Sav Blanc was a considerably bigger investment!

WALNUT TREE, FORGE HILL, ROMAN ROAD, ALDINGTON, ASHFORD TN25 7DT

Décor: The pub is packed with fascinating features and the history is understandably celebrated. Landlady Hannah has strong family links to this place and it shows. *****

Drink: All the usual Shepherd Neame suspects were available, but I decided the Bear Island IPA was worth the few pennies more and it was a lovely pint. I’m told the wine too, was a really good choice. ****

Price: A pint of 4.8% Bear Island IPA was £5.60 and a large Runnymede Sauvignon Blanc £9.10. The sandwiches (BLT and sausage & onion), with chips and salad were £7.50 each. ***

Staff: All the barmaids were fantastic – they could not have been more friendly and helpful are a real credit to landlady. Special mention for ultra-welcoming pub hound Chester. *****

We didn't have a game, but there was a dartboard on the left hand side of the bar, complete with the largest marking blackboard I've ever seen
We didn’t have a game, but there was a dartboard on the left hand side of the bar, complete with the largest marking blackboard I’ve ever seen
Immaculately tiled and spotlessly clean, I can report the gents are carefully maintained
Immaculately tiled and spotlessly clean, I can report the gents are carefully maintained
The toilets are certainly kept clean but I was still a little surprised there was a need for this polite request not to lick the walls of the gents
The toilets are certainly kept clean but I was still a little surprised there was a need for this polite request not to lick the walls of the gents
When I took a look and saw the depth of this well, I wasn't surprised to see someone had sensibly decided it needs to be protected by a substantial wrought iron guard
When I took a look and saw the depth of this well, I wasn’t surprised to see someone had sensibly decided it needs to be protected by a substantial wrought iron guard
To the right of this picture is the dining room. The double-sided wood burner, to the left, is the original bread oven
To the right of this picture is the dining room. The double-sided wood burner, to the left, is the original bread oven

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